Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
